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BARBECUE

Shaul Mutzafi


Hatikva
15 Hamevaser St., Hatikva market
Tel Aviv
+972-3-6392344

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Price (dinner)$
Price (lunch)$

Food*****
Service****
Ambiance***
Overall****



Features
certified Kosher
takeout
television


Accepts
cash


Smoking
permitted

Dress
casual


Alcohol
wine / beer

Reservations
not accepted


Parking
street parking


Handicapped Access
partially accessible

No stairs along the way from the street to the restaurant, so technically it's possible for people in wheelchairs to get from the car to the restaurant unaided. However, during the day it's not comfortable to drive a wheelchair through a packed market street..

Top: Israel: Tel Aviv: Hatikva

Description



6 table barbecue restaurant, with the 'kitchen' just behind the counter. Located in the heart of the Hatikva market, next to the butchers' alley. Don't expect tablecloths or a wine list.






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The best skewers under 100$
In Israel, close to half the reviews refer to 'the best in the country'. Apparently, critics do not feel comfortable saying they have had a decent humus, so they upgrade the review to 'the ultimate' this or 'the definitive' that.

However, this case is different. Really. I have sampled skeweries all over the country, and I can tell you that no one makes grilled skirt steak as good as Mutzafi. His lamb sweet breads are precise and mouth-watering, the goose liver is prepared impeccably and the lamb skewers have restored my belief in the Israeli meat industry.

Just in case you haven't gathered this from the details in the listing: Mutzafi's is not the place to go for a quiet, candlelit wedding anniversary. The place is small, often crowded (all six tables) and the TV is constantly on. For me, a typical visit takes place around 9PM, when the marketplace is empty and the only visitors are people who have found their way through the alleys with the specific intention of eating meat.

Shortly after you take your seat, the waitress lays your table: a plate of fresh parsley, a small plate of amba and the house pickles. After your order is taken, hot, usually freshly baked pita bread is added along with your choice of starters. There is not much to select from - tehina (good), humus (industrial), tomato and cucumber salad (as good as you season it) and sometimes eggplant and mayo salad (stay away). By this time, your order should already have been placed on the small grill behind the counter, operated by a radiant, elderly woman . This is the choice of meats, all of which are barbecued on skewers:

1. read meat - the local name for skirt steak (the butcher's cut, steak anglais)
2. lamb - cubes of lamb thigh (gigot)
3. chicken - leg and thigh
4. kebab - the house specialty (according to the house)
5. Reded - lamb sweet breads
6. Halawiyat - beef sweet breads
7. Biz - udders
8. chicken liver
9. chicken hearts
10. turkey testicles
11. goose liver (often serves as my dessert)

Whatver you order, make sure the grill person places a skewer or two of tomatoes and onions on the grill for you. It goes very well with the meat.

Some people swear that Mutzafi's kebab is a work of art. I think it's decent, and you should ask the waitress to have it prepared medium, otherwise it will conform to the Israeli standard of depleting grilled meats from all traces of moisture.
The red meat is perfect, the lamb is usually very good altho the farther you get from April, the older the lambs get. The hearts are good, the chicken liver is excellent if you ask for it medium-rare, the chicken is very good (medium only), and if you like turkey testicles, this is a good place to eat them. If you want biz (udders), ask whether they are soft - this meat tends to become elastic to the point of requiring a minute of chewing.
The grilled goose liver is excellent, and by this I mean that the Mutzafi's give it the minimal treatment needed to bring out its qualities.
The only side order is fries. They are standard, and always served fresh off the f ryer.
The desserts are either non existent or not worth your time. Use the space you save on them to cram in another skewer.

Prices: (at 4 NIS per dollar):
starters: 2.5$
skewers: each from 2$ (kebab, chicken liver) to 4$ (red meat), goose liver being more expensive at 6.5$. each skewer contains 5-6 pieces.

    [22 Sep 2000 14:31:51]

Food: *****   Service: ****   Ambiance: ***   Overall: ****
Recommended Dishes: red meat skewers (skirt steak)

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