Bistro Viola plays sweet song on San Pablo
There's no one for upscale Bistro Viola to play second fiddle to (except for the Ashkenaz) in this forlorn, blue-collar part of West Berkeley. Despite the distinct lack of competition, Viola rises to the occasion, offering the devoted local crowd an ambitious seasonal menu of Californified French-inspired bistro fare. Suprisingly, the funky, cobbled together outdoor patio is always more crowded than the sleekly-refurbished 35-seat modern (read: noisy) interior. What about the food, you ask? Adventuresome and delightful takes on traditional bistro fare. From sly salads, saucy soups and unadorned fresh veggie sides to succulent steamed mussels, your basic $9.50 burger and roasted meaty mains, it's all here, prepared with the utmost attention to detail. Save room for an aperitif and one of the decadent desserts.    [31 May 2000 00:01:13]

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Recommended Dishes: Steamed mussels, flourless chocolate cake, cheeses

     ­andrew dean, laughtears.net   adean at ekno dot com