A dependable choice for tasty Italian
Sit in main warm red brick room, rather than in cavelike entry of this three-year-old, unless the fireplace is ablaze. Is the building an old wharehouse? Whatever it is, it is haunted by some sort of spirits, as several restaurants have come and gone ni a short period of time. Te specialty here clearly is seafood. You'd ever know that the owners are not Italian. The service is efficient but subdued. Start with a skimpy uncut caesar salad or delicate, melt-in-your-mouth minestrone with slow-simmered pureed pinto beans. The hearty seafood (clams, shrimp, calamari, salmon and mussels) risoto in thick tomato sauce for ($15.95) is a highlight. Mom had pollo dijon, a creamy mess of fettucine with breast, artichoke hearts, mushrooms, leeks and basil - nothing special. There's lotsa pasta, which is always a safe bet. Nightly seafood specials are good choice, too. Many familiar Californian and Italian wines, all under $30, a well-balanced selection. Italian oilpaintings and cornucopias liven up the otherwise dull brick walls. Blah sourdough bread starter comes with nice dish of extra-virgin olive oil, peppered with fresh garlic and parsley confetti. Tiramisú is only one of five desserts that is homemade, not always on dessert tray. Fresh flowers at every table and linen napkins are nice touches. It's a favorite of professor academic types, locals and lovey-dovey couples    [18 May 2000 22:00:48]

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Recommended Dishes: Minestrone, tiramisu

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