Basic Steaks and Retro Atmosphere
Before I dined at this venerable steak establishment in West Arlington, I read all of the reviews. Since the posts ran the gamut from “there were bugs on the tables” to “it’s the best restaurant in Arlington,” I was unsure of what my experience there would be like. But, being the connoisseur of mom and pop eateries and always keen to try new places off the neon mile, I threw the culinary dice and decided to have dinner there.

First off, the parking isn’t the optimum for a roadside eatery, so be sure to pick a spot to the west of the building, where the lot is more than just a single strip right next to the cars speeding past on busy Division Street.

Upon arrival, I was greeted by a friendly and smiling hostess, who directed me to the back dining room, the area reserved for non smoking customers. I could find my own seat and sit wherever I wished. Before entering the dining area, I took a quick glance at the smoking area and could see that it was exactly that: a room thick with smoke and people who don’t mind a good dose of nicotine with their top sirloin. I’m talking heavy smoke—the kind that could only be endured if you were a smoker yourself or happened to bring along a portable oxygen tent.

Having found a table in the non-smoking area, I took note of the small booths lining on wall and the vintage furniture. Some of these furnishings have been around for a long time! I got the notion that in its day, this restaurant was a real workhorse and I could feel the presence of the thousands of people that sat here before me and the steaks that were gobbled down. I also got the uncanny feeling that my visit here might be ten years too late. Like a favorite Teddy Bear, the Arlington steakhouse had been loved a little bit too much. The material is a little worn and the seams are beginning to fray. It was a homey feeling, the type you might get from grandma’s kitchen (if you are comfortable with that) or that old diner that you used to got to with your dad when you were a kid.

With great anticipation, I ordered the Black Angus cut with a baked potato (with everything on it) and a salad with thousand island dressing. Unfortunately, my server was not “miss congeniality” and did not seem very happy with the whole waitress “thing.” I tried to be overly friendly to pull her out of her sullen mood and get a smile out of her, but it was no use. I must admit, I have had more lively conversations with the automated menu board at Jack-In-The-Box. But, there’s a good chance that she was not feeling well, since she was limping and appeared to be in some sort of pain. It’s only my opinion, but this was a staffing/managerial issue--is not a good state to be in for someone who is on their feet all night serving customers at a restaurant ...

My salad was served first, and the presentation was pretty basic to say the least: A small pile of cold lettuce (no croutons, cucumbers, or tomatoes included) served on an oblong plate, covered with dressing. It appeared to be fresh and I ate the entire plate. With sullen efficiency, the steak was delivered next, and it was arranged on a circular, no-frills plate, accompanied by an average-sized baked potato encapsulated in tin foil. It all looked pretty normal, but it was the sour cream that caught me a little off guard: it was served within a long foil squeeze dispenser (the same kind of packet that fast food ketchup comes in) and was carefully arranged on the plate as part of the serving scheme. It was precisely then that I got the impression that Wolfgang Puck wasn’t in the kitchen.

Nevertheless, the steak was pretty much cooked as requested, medium, but was just a skosh on the medium-well side. I couldn’t tell if there was any seasoning at all and for all intent and purposes, it was merely a grilled steak. But to be more accurate, it appeared to me that the meat was pan or griddle fried and not seared over coals or a grill, but I could be wrong. I didn’t see any grill marks. I applied some salt and reached briskly for the Heinz 57 sauce, applying generous portions as I sliced my way through the slab of Angus. It’s not that the steak tasted bad or needed to have its flavor masked, it was just that it didn’t have that extra “oomph” that’s required of a steak that’s eaten without any accompanying flavor enhancing sauces.

It was tender, too--despite the lack of imagination in its preparation. Even so, I’m partial to the more high-end steaks that are served up in places like the Saltgrass Steak House, The Outback, and other restaurants of their ilk, sometime topped with savory butter or sublimely seasoned with proprietary herbs and spices (When I grill my own steaks, I like to use Montreal Steak Seasoning and find that it really compliments a good cut of beef). Nevertheless, the one redeeming quality of the Arlington Steak House experience was that there was little fat to be found on my steak and consequently I was able to consume the entire cut of meat.

The upshot of it all? For those who merely want to chow down on a quick steak without all of the pomp and circumstance that is found at the modern chain restaurant or the high prices of the one-off boutique steak houses, the Arlington Steak House is an acceptable meal. The prices are reasonable and the food is home-style, as many of these posts attest to. But, for those who like a little bit more modern surroundings, attentive service, and food that is prepared and served with a little more panache, it would be best if you confined your dining activities to the mainstream grills found along the miracle mile. The Arlington Steakhouse is good, but for those who have eaten better, the extra money you might pay at a more upscale place is well worth it.

Postscript: I was wearing a new jacket during my visit and in a vain attempt to keep it safe, it got stained. The leather collar was soiled by mayonnaise or some such other glop when I draped it over one of the chairs. No, it wasn’t that I dropped food on it, it was hung on a chair at the table next to me. My advice: When in West Arlington, save the Haute Couture for the Haute Cuisine and be careful where you drape your coat.    [05 Jan 2007 16:25:31]

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     ­Texas Jobshopper